RepRap Controlled Time-Lapse Photography

While capturing the time-lapse last week, John and I ran into two irritating issues.  The first is that the moving platform causes the object being printed to come in and out of the focal plane of the camera and makes for a jarring video.  The second is that because the interval between photos is constant, some large and slow layers will have multiple shots taken while several consecutive quick layers can be skipped entirely.  The solution to both of these is to dynamically remote trigger the camera from the printer.

I wrote a Skeinforge photograph plugin that inserts a new G-code command, M240, which tells the printer to trigger a photograph.  The module offers three modes.  End of Layer, as demonstrated by Yoda above, is the simplest.  It takes one picture at the start of the first layer and then another at the end of each layer of the print, resolving only the second of the aforementioned issues.  Corner of Layer takes a picture at the minimum Y,X of each layer.  Least Change between Layers tries to take shots that are as close as possible to each other from layer to layer.  I had the most visually interesting results with the last setting, as shown in the Flower print up top.  The module can be downloaded from github, and installation instructions are included within its text.

Infrared Trigger

The other half of the control scheme is triggering the camera from the RepRap.  Since I didn’t want to risk coupling my T2i directly to the printer, I went for emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote, which has been thoroughly reverse engineered.  The hardware is simply an 850nm infrared LED in series with a 180 ohm resistor connected to one of the I/O pins on the Arduino Mega.  I chose pin 23 because I could solder to it without pulling my RAMPS board off.  The software side is equally simple.  For this, I forked the excellent Sprinter firmware to respond to M240 and send the correct pulse over the IR LED.  My fork is on github, but the diff that adds M240 support is the interesting bit.

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Time-Lapse of a RepRap Print

John visited recently and suggested that we bring another photographic production to the world: this time, a time-lapse of the RepRap printing out an interesting looking object.  After some frustrating attempts to install the Canon EOS Utility, we just used an intervalometer directly on my T2i with the Magic Lantern firmware.  In case you want to try it out and to save me a lot of Googling in the future, here are the mencoder parameters to generate a sanely sized video from high resolution stills.

mencoder -ovc lavc -lavcopts vcodec=mjpeg -mf fps=10:type=jpg -vf scale=960:720 'mf://*.JPG' -o timelapse.avi

Depending on which project gets swapped into my next free time slot, I may have another post soon exploring an extension on this that John and I discussed.

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Snow Globe: Part One, Cheap DIY Spherical Projection

Earth in Snow Globe

Since reading Snow Crash, I’ve been drawn to the idea of having my own personal Earth.  Because I’m stuck in reality and the virtual version of it is always 5 years away, I’m building a physical artifact that approximates the idea: an interactive spherical display.  This is of course something that exists and can likely be found at your local science center.  The ones they use are typically 30-100″ in diameter and cost enough that they don’t have prices publicly listed.  Snow Globe is my 8″ diameter version that costs around $200 to build if you didn’t buy a Microvision SHOWWX for $600 when they launched like I did.

Lens mount

The basic design here is to shoot a picoprojector through a 180° fisheye lens into a frosted glass globe.  The projector is a SHOWWX since I already have one, but it likely works better than any of the non-laser alternatives since you avoid having to deal with keeping the surface of the sphere focused.  Microvision also publishes some useful specs, and if you ask nicely, they’ll email you a .STL model of their projector.  The lens is an Opteka fisheye designed to be attached to handheld camcorders.  It is by far the cheapest 180° lens I could find with a large enough opening to project through.  The globe, as in my last dome based project is for use on lighting fixtures.  This time I bought one from the local hardware store for $6 instead of taking the one in my bathroom.

I’ve had a lot of fun recently copying keys and people, but my objective in building a 3D printer was to make it easier to do projects like this one.  Designing a model in OpenSCAD, printing it, tweaking it, and repeating as necessary is much simpler than any other fabrication technique I’m capable of.  In this case, I printed a mount that attaches the lens to the correct spot in front of the projector at a 12.15° angle to center the projected image.  I also printed brackets to attach the globe to the lens/projector mount.  The whole thing is sitting on a GorillaPod until I get around to building something more permanent.

Snow Globe

Actually calibrating a projector with slight pincushion through a $25 lens into a bathroom fixture attached together with some guesswork and a 3D printer is well beyond my linear algebra skill, so I simplified the calibration procedure down to four terms.  We need to find the radius in pixels of the circle being projected and the x and y position of the center of that circle for starters.  The more difficult part, which tested my extremely rusty memory of trigonometry is figuring out how to map the hemisphere coming out of the fisheye lens to the spherical display surface.  For that, we have a single number for the distance from the center of the sphere to the lens, in terms of a ratio of the projected radius.  The math is all available in the code, but the calibration script I wrote is pretty simple to use.  It uses pygame to project longitude lines and latitude color sections as in the image above.  You use the arrow keys to line up the longitude lines correctly to arrive at the x and y position, plus and minus keys to adjust the radius size until it fits the full visible area of the sphere, and 9 and 0 to adjust the lens offset until the latitudes look properly aligned.  What you end up with is close enough to correct to look good, though as you can see in the images, the projector doesn’t quite fit the lens or fill the sphere.  The script saves the calibration information in a pickle file for use elsewhere.

Projected sphere

Going back to the initial goal, I wrote a script to turn equirectangular projected maps of the Earth into roughly azimuthal equidistant projected images calibrated for a Snow Globe like the one above.  There are plenty of maps of the former projection available freely, like Natural Earth and Blue Marble. Written in python, the script is quite slow, but it serves as a proof of concept.  The script, along with the calibration script and the models for the 3D printed mounts are all available on github.  I’ve finally fully accepted git and no longer see a point in attaching the files to these posts themselves.  I put a Part One in the title to warn you that this blog is going to be all Snow Globe all the time for the foreseeable future.  Up next is writing a faster interface to interactively display to it in real time, and if I think of a good way to do it, touch input is coming after that.

Download from github:
git://github.com/nrpatel/SnowGlobe.git

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